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Old 11-11-2009, 10:40 PM   #51
Norty Torty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozric Jonathan View Post
From what I have seen in this thread Norty is at least interested in providing for the needs of this tortoise to the best of his ability and the information available suggests this is a step up from what was going on before.

Thank you so much for this

I am trying to make everything as good as possible for him. It's hard when you are a newbie and it helps to hear from people like you that I'm going in the right direction. When you have a tort from a situation that is not ideal I guess you kind of do feel like you are rescuing them

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Old 11-11-2009, 11:07 PM   #52
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Going by the Jackson Ratio (rough guide) if your tortoise is 15 cm straight Carapace length (the measurement Bindi wrote of) he should be in the 800-850 grams region.

For whatever reason (the previous housing regime throws up some interesting questions but I'm to tired to pursue it ) your tortoise is showing some excessive shell growth with lots of keratin being regulary added to the shell scutes resuting in the "pyrammiding" effect you see along the scutes on his back and the dark colouration appearing to occupy the majority of the scutes when, in most Hermanns, it will only colour the margin of each scute.

With the eating, he'll be ok for a while, add supplements to the offered food regularly and calcium on the days when a multi vitamin suppement such as Nutrobal is not being offered) and make sure he's drinking (bathing him will help to encourage this).

Personally I'd up the UV lamp to at least 14 hours a day for now. Give the tortoise plenty of exposure to it.
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:17 PM   #53
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[QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirkie View Post
Going by the Jackson Ratio (rough guide) if your tortoise is 15 cm straight Carapace length (the measurement Bindi wrote of) he should be in the 800-850 grams region.

For whatever reason (the previous housing regime throws up some interesting questions but I'm to tired to pursue it ) your tortoise is showing some excessive shell growth with lots of keratin being regulary added to the shell scutes resuting in the "pyrammiding" effect you see along the scutes on his back and the dark colouration appearing to occupy the majority of the scutes when, in most Hermanns, it will only colour the margin of each scute.

With the eating, he'll be ok for a while, add supplements to the offered food regularly and calcium on the days when a multi vitamin suppement such as Nutrobal is not being offered) and make sure he's drinking (bathing him will help to encourage this). [/QUOTE

Personally I'd up the UV lamp to at least 14 hours a day for now. Give the tortoise plenty of exposure to it.

Thank you - I know it's late so thanks again

I'll email tomorrow if that's ok?

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Old 11-11-2009, 11:20 PM   #54
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Not a problem.
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Old 12-11-2009, 07:59 AM   #55
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Now that you know it's a Hermanns it should actually have a A10 certificate and be microchipped if over 100mm.. if it was sold to you. If it was given to you for free I don't think it needs that but you'd never be able to sell it and if it ever produced offspring you'd no be able to sell them.
You may think at the moment that you never will but a lot of people start off with just one tort then end up with loads so it would save a lot of hassle later if you had the A10 now. The previous owner may have it, hopefully. It's illegal to sell without a A10.

BTW I would find another vet

Last edited by Alan1; 12-11-2009 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:04 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by caledonia View Post
Now that you know it's a Hermanns it should actually have a A10 certificate and be microchipped if over 100mm.. if it was sold to you. If it was given to you for free I don't think it needs that but you'd never be able to sell it and if it ever produced offspring you'd no be able to sell them.
You may think at the moment that you never will but a lot of people start off with just one tort then end up with loads so it would save a lot of hassle later if you had the A10 now. The previous owner may have it, hopefully. It's illegal to sell without a A10.

BTW I would find another vet
Thank you for that advice, I'll get on to it today.

I have just relocated so I needed a new one anyway and have just had one recommended to me.

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Old 12-11-2009, 02:49 PM   #57
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I would just like to say, well done you for asking your questions and doing all you can to improve Snorks' quality of life. There is always lots to take in as a newbie, and even the more experienced keepers will admit that there is always something to learn.
Don't be put off by this, you're doing great
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:16 PM   #58
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I thought the jackson ratio was just for torts up to 2 years old or something or was that something else?
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:24 PM   #59
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The Jackson ratio is based on Med tortoises. It used wild caught tortoise weights as a reference. The tortoises were adults.

The weights were plotted on a graph and a regression analysis was performed. Any graphics calculator can do it now days.

The 'Machintyre Ratio' is the same thing except that it is based on captive animals... major flaw for many reasons.

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I thought the jackson ratio was just for torts up to 2 years old or something or was that something else?
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:30 PM   #60
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Ah right. I don't know where I got that young torts thing from
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