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Old 31-08-2011, 11:27 PM   #31
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Or just puts people off asking questions in the future......................
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Old 31-08-2011, 11:29 PM   #32
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Or just puts people off asking questions in the future......................
i think you have something there xx
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:03 AM   #33
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Out ruled here. I'll retreat to my corner and keep my opinions to myself... although it seems there are some unanswered questions.

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i think you have something there xx
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:20 PM   #34
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Or just puts people off asking questions in the future......................
It has put me off lol x think I will just email Chris direct
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:54 PM   #35
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Kind of sidesteps the purpose of a forum... to discuss... get different ideas... socialize.

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It has put me off lol x think I will just email Chris direct
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:45 PM   #36
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I think most do allready .

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It has put me off lol x think I will just email Chris direct
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:45 PM   #37
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Kind of sidesteps the purpose of a forum... to discuss... get different ideas... socialize.
Point taken , but sometimes too much info is dangerous too.. And I will stick by my freedom of choice and ask just one person per question .. as whilst it may be the same answers given by multiple, I personally struggle with too much info, so thanks for your input , and who knows I may even ask you a question or two... thanks
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:50 AM   #38
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I am almost sorry I asked for help
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:57 AM   #39
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2ft x 2ft is a bit small really, it's best to have it as big as you can.

if using the basking bulb + UVB bulb method it's best to have a 10.0 or 12.0 UVB bulb (for redfoots, 5.0 is fine)

As said above 32c is about the minimum basking temp and 32-35c being in about what you want but if it goes higher then they just move away from the bulb a bit, that's where having a bigger table benefits, they need to escape the heat if they want. About 20c at cool end is fine but again, if it's cooler than that then they simply come closer to the heat. A slate isn't great for a basking spot as it can become too hot to sit on.

Heat mats can be used so long as they are used properly, opinion is divided on them but in the wild they get heat from below also as the ground is warm. Look up some threads on heat mats in the search facility.

They don't always drink when you are looking so water must always be available. A bath once a day will help prevent dehydration and the formation of bladder stones and it also encourages them to drink which in turn may help prevent pyramiding of the shell (Manuel Wegehaupt theory) and you should give reptivite or Nutrobal daily since your UVB bulb is only 5.0, most people give it daily or every second day in any case.

You need to provide extra calcium in the form of limestone flour or calci dust and also a cuttlefish bone which provides calcium and helps keep the beak in trim even though they only eat it now and again
I decided to build him a bigger home,over double the size now he is very happy with it as he digs in and even uses his log to sleep in. I bought a 125W Solar Glo and a heat mat that will be used in an experiment to up the tables temp. I will use it carefully and monitor it extensively until I am happy that he is ok with it. The lime flour has arrived, the opuntia too so he has a more varied diet and even seems to enjoy his baths. I realise he has settled down a great deal and I am now researching his hibernation process as I think it is sensible to allow him to have as natural a lifecycle as possible. Thx for your advice....
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