We’ve started....

Care of Mediterranean Tortoise Hatchlings, By Peter Watson

Wed, 23 Jul 2008 10:56:16 +0100

Indoor Housing

As with adult tortoises hatchlings can be maintained in open topped enclosures, but on a much smaller scale. In general Mediterranean species do not do well when housed in vivarium type setups, where poor ventilation and humidity combined with constant high temperatures can contribute to a number of illnesses, the main one being RNS (Runny Nose Syndrome).

UV lighting is very important for the healthy development of hatchling tortoises and careful consideration should be taken into the way in which you provide it. I personally opt for UV/heat combined mercury vapour lamps. These are far superior to any other form of UV light currently on the market, providing a high UV output, essential for tortoises. The other option when it comes to heat and light for a tortoise table is to use a normal spot bulb and a UV tube. If this option is chosen then it is advisable to purchase the highest output tube available. It should also be noted that tubes must be replaced every 6 months, as by this time the UV output has decayed beyond a useful level.

Another essential component of an indoor tortoise enclosure is substrate. I have tested a number of different substrates for my hatchlings and I have now found something that is working well for me. It can be worth playing about with different substrates as different people have different successes than others. In my hatchling tables I personally use a layer of play sand/topsoil mixed to a ration of 40% sand to 60% soil (I find that if more sand is used it becomes much to dry and can cause irritation to the occupants of the enclosure). On top of the sand/soil I use a thin layer of Aubiose (hemp).

Although Mediterranean species do not generally require humid setups I like to give them an option and so provide at least two hide areas in each hatchling table enclosure. One of these hides has a damp sponge attached to the roof creating a humid hide, whilst the other is left dry. I find that nine times out of ten, hatchlings will chose a humid hide to sleep in overnight than a dry one.

Of course the usual additional items should be included such as, a water bowl, rocks, logs etc. All to ensure the tortoises environment is as interesting as possible.

Outdoor Housing

Just like adults, hatchlings should be allowed time outdoors during warmer weather. It is very important to be sure that outdoor housing for any hatchling is secure, to prevent escape and attack from predators. As such some form of netting or mesh to cover over the enclosure is essential.

For very small hatchlings a simple outdoor enclosure can be made by purchasing a large plant pot and filling it with soil to about ¾ of the way up and then planting it out with edible tortoise plants/weeds. Then simply place a piece of mesh over the pot ensuring that it can not fall off easily and you have a simple yet effective enclosure. The beauty of this is that it can be moved around during the day to more sunnier areas.

Another option, which can be very successful is to purchase a large indoor guinea-pig/rabbit cage. All that is needed is for some soil to be added and weed seeds planted. Once the seeds begin to grow all that is needed is the addition of a small hide and there you have it, a perfect hatchling enclosure.

Diet

Hatchlings, as with any other tortoises, should be given as varied a diet as possible to try to replicate as near a natural diet as possible. It is fairly easy to replicate such a diet in a captive situation with a little research into edible weeds and plants (The Shelled Warriors edible weed section is a good place to start).

Some weeds and flowers which can be included in a young tortoises diet are: Dandelion, Bitter cress, Sow Thistle, Vetch, Clover, Dead nettle, Plantain Evening primrose, Hibiscus, Lavatera and Pansies. This is only a brief summary, there are many other weeds and flowers that can be included, as previously mentioned a little research to familiarise yourself with the various edible plants is all that is needed to create a healthy balanced diet.

When feeding hatchlings it is often recommended to restrict the amount of food given to help ensure steady growth and development. Personally I like to see a weight gain of around 2-4 grams per month. However, if one month one of my hatchlings gains a bit more I do not worry too much as this often balances out over the year. I do allow a higher weight increase per month as the tortoises become older.

In the natural range of Mediterranean species UVB levels are a lot higher than they are in the UK, for this reason it is advisable to add a D3 supplement such as Nutrabol daily to a hatchling tortoises food. I also advise giving your tortoise constant access to calcium in the form of limestone flour, either in a bowl in its powdered form or mixed with water to form a block. I also provide cuttlefish in my enclosures, although this is not as readily taken as limestone flour.

Other husbandry points

It is essential that small tortoises are bathed at least every other day to prevent dehydration. I personally prefer to bath my hatchlings almost daily, with the odd exception. Small tortoises dehydrate very quickly, so getting into a routine with baths is important to ensure the prolonged health of your hatchlings.

It is also important to keep an eye on hatchlings as although they are pretty much as easy to care for as adults it should be remembered that if an illness sets in then such a small tortoise will almost certainly go down hill very quickly. A daily check to make sure eyes are bright and nose is clear, as well as checking over the tortoises shell, vent and legs for signs of injury or anything that you do not feel is normal for your tortoise. If you are concerned about a hatchlings health you should contact a specialist vet as soon as possible for medical advice, putting off seeing a vet could be the difference between life and death in a young tortoise especially.

Testudo Species Husbandry Advice, by Hannah Bould B.V.M.S, M.R.C.V.S

Fri, 30 Nov 2007 15:04:06 +0000

Tortoises are not capable of surviving the British climate long term without some help. As reptiles, their metabolic rate is largely determined by environmental temperature. They can take many years to exhibit signs of ill health. Often ill health is due to a deficiency in the husbandry/environment. Many people believe that their old tortoises have thrived in the garden without interference. However, the majority of these were originally wild caught, and had a good juvenile background (good climate, adequate sunlight and a good natural diet) which gave them sufficient reserves to survive in Britain. A great many of these older tortoises have health and disease problems; many die with the owners wrongly thinking it is old age. Many diseases are chronic and have been underlying long term, eventually becoming too much, so presenting as ‘sudden’ illnesses. It is hard to think of illness in terms of years/decades, but reptiles are designed very differently to us. The tortoise that has seemingly thrived in the bedroom or by the gas fire in the living room is rarely as healthy as one would like to think.

With the banning of importation of wild Testudo species, more captive bred juveniles are becoming available to the public. A license is required to sell or exchange al Testudo species in Britain. Juveniles are extremely difficult to keep, the correct care of these creatures is absolutely critical. They need an enviroment and diet comparable to that of their native countries. Without this care, a very large percentage of juveniles die within their first few years of life, or remain unthrifty with chronic problems. There is a massive illegal trade in tortoises, and other species are now commonly imported, most of which are even less adapted to survive the British climate. It is important to only buy tortoises from good reputable breeders, not pet shops or dealers.

This article is to explain a few of the essential requirements these fascinating creatures have; to ensure they have a long healthy life in your care. Is is also recommended that you join some of the Chelonian interest groups such as Shelled Warriors as people can provide a wealth of experience and knowledge.

The Tortoise Table

During the colder months of the year, if you choose not to hibernate your tortoise then is is really important to provide a heat controlled environment. Tortoise tables are easy to make, or buy. A table should be as large as possible and provide areas for basking, digging, hiding, climbing and eating. Additionally, if your tortoise is unwell, or the weather is very poor in summer, the tortoise table is an ideal backup. Glass tanks and vivariums are totally unsuitable for tortoises.

Obviously, tortoises should have access to the outdoors and grazing/digging for as much of the year as possible. This obviously depends on the temperature. Even hatchlings are fine outside as long as they are in predator proof pens/enclosures. Even birds have been known to take hatchlings. Greenhouses or coldframes can be erected and provide a warmer area if the weather is a little cool or cloudy. Many tortoises love rain and will drink from puddles.

Heating

Tortoises require an external heat source, as they cannot produce their own body heat. Heat is essential for normal metabolic functions and survival. The British climate is often not warm enough. Tortoises left to fend without access supplementary heat are surviving at sub-optimal levels; their ability to fight infection will be markedly reduced. A temperature range of 21-30c (70-86f) seems ideal. The tortoise table should be large enough to accommodate a basking lamp, and cooler area. If given an adequate range, tortoises move around and self regulate their body temperature. If they are unable to do this, they will become very stressed. Ceramic heat lamps (no light) are ideal and can be suspended at one end of the table, under thermostatic control. A drop in temperature at night is recommended for healthy tortoises. Tortoises often retreat and dig under the substrate at the cooler end at night.

Lighting

When kept indoors, tortoises require broad spectrum ultra violet lighting during the day. This is a substitute for natural sunlight, and is essential for proper calcium metabolism and normal body functions. There are many lights on the market, many are not suitable for tortoises. Ideally they need to be no more than 50cm above the tortoise and need to be changed every 6-12 months as their effectiveness markedly reduces. Ordinary light bulbs are not adequate, neither is sunlight through glass (U.V rays do not filter through glass). UV strip lights themselves are relatively inexpensive, but many require a starter unit. Natural sunlight is obviously the best, in warm weather tortoises should be basking and roaming outside.

Diet

This is seriously important for the correct growth and optimal health of tortoises. Testudo species are largely vegetarian, they should be given a diet exclusively of weeds and flowers. When roaming outside, some are partial to the occasional slug of snail, but these shouldn’t be offered as routine. Avoid supermarket salads, greens and fruits. Sadly, many tortoises are fed this and can be very difficult to wean onto a healthy diet. There many comprehensive lists of suitable diets for tortoises available (see Edible Weeds section above). Weeds should be washed and offered without being chopped up; healthy juveniles will tear and pull just as well as an adult. Juveniles especially benefit from calcium supplementation, and will often gnaw at calcium blocks and cuttlefish. Additionally there are some excellent supplements on the market. I recommend ‘Nutrobal’ by Vetark Professional. This can be sprinkled on food regularly.

General Care

Weigh your tortoise regularly, and keep a diary. There is additionally weight/length ratios available which can be used as a guide to whether your tortoise is of an adequate weight. This is extremely important if you’re planning to hibernate your tortoise. I recommend pre-hibernation checks with a tortoise veterinarian to ensure health is good, and also to discuss hibernation regimes/potential problems.

Post hibernation care is also very important. Lots of warm baths are important to help your tortoise to rehydrate. This often stimulates feeding, if the environment is warm enough. If a tortoise does not start eating within a few days of emerging from hibernation, despite correct husbandry and environment, I strongly recommend a visit to a vet. Mouth rot, liver and kidney disease are common post hibernation problems.

With regard to bathing - I advise bathing your juveniles daily and adults several times a week. Ideally they should have access to clean water at all times. Warm water that comes up to mid carapace/jaw (only if your tortoise is strong and well and can lift its head up) enables them to drink. Many tortoises are stimulated to pass faeces and urates (white part of the urine) whilst in the bath, which helps reduce the contamination of their living quarters.

Daily spot cleaning of the substrate is important to reduce faecal contamination with regular full clean and replacement of substrate. Sand/topsoil/hemp are good substrates, they enable tortoises to dig and burrow more naturally. Faecal samples should be checked regularly by a vet to see if any worms or protozoan parasites are building up.

Use a recommended disinfectant as tortoises can carry a significant number of potential harmful bacteria, which if they build up in their environment will cause illness. I recommend Ark-Klens (Vetark Professional), Trigene, Virkon, or F10.

Appointments with Hannah can be made by calling the Friarswood Veterinary Centre.

Friarswood Veterinary Centre

Address:
12 Friarswood Road
Newcastle-under-Lyme
Staffordshire
ST5 2EG

Telephone: 01782 615698
Fax: 01782 662575

Marginated Tortoise Caresheet, by Peter Watson

Fri, 30 Nov 2007 14:48:34 +0000

Marginated tortoises (Testudo Marginata)

The Marginated tortoise (Testudo Marginata) is the largest of the Mediterranean tortoises. Adults can attain a length of 35cm and 5kg in weight. They are long bodied with very flared rear marginal scutes, this adds to the elegant appearance of this species. Adults have an almost entirely black carapace with a yellow highlights. They exhibit characteristic dark brown triangular shaped markings in pairs along the edge of the plastron. This species is notoriously difficult to sex even as adults.

Marginateds have a relatively small range in the wild. They are found in Greece, from the Peloponnesus to Mount Olympus. They are also found in isolated zones of the Balkans, Italy and north-eastern Sardinia.

When purchasing a Marginated tortoise it is advisable to seek a UK breeder to ensure a healthy animals. From past experience it has been found that many Marginated tortoises sold in pet shops are imported from Europe and can bring with them many problems. If your tortoise is an import it is advisable to have a faecal sample checked for internal parasites as a precaution. Marginated tortoises require an article 10 certificate, which should be supplied with the tortoise at the time of sale.

Indoor Housing

The first consideration when planning any enclosure be it indoors or outdoors is size. Marginated tortoises attain a fairly large size and so this should be taken into account when designing housing. Indoors they require a large table top setup, which should include heat and UV lighting. There are currently two ways to provide this:

a) A UV tube and a heat lamp. Although it at first seems cheaper to go with this option it can work out to be very expensive. Typically a UV tube will cost around £20 and a starter around £15. After 6 months the tubes will need to be replaced as the UV, over this period will become depleted, hence making the tube useless. There is an advantage to this however in that the UV and heat are controlled separately and so one could be turned off without the other having to be as well.

b) A combined UV/heat lamp. The initial expense with this option may seem a lot, but long term it will work out a lot cheaper. These bulbs last between two and three years and cost around £50. Compared to the life of the tube and replacement costs, then the combined will prove more beneficial.

It is inevitably down to personal preference which method you use. I personally opt for a mix of the two depending on the size of the enclosure and how many animals are housed in the area. Whichever method of heating/lighting you use you should be aiming for 28-30C beneath the heat source during the day, with a cooler area away from the basking spot at around 20C.

Marginateds do not require a humid setup unlike species such as Redfoots and so substrate should be chosen accordingly. Personally I use a combination of Play sand and topsoil (40% sand/60% soil) and Aubiose (available from any good equestrian store). This combination works well for me.

An interesting enclosure is also very important for a tortoise. Logs, rocks and broken plant pots can be used to make the enclosure more exciting for the tortoise and give it something to explore. If you place items in the enclosure in such a way that the tortoise is unable to see around them it provides added stimulation. Despite popular belief tortoises do drink from water bowls and so one should be provided with clean, fresh water at all times. A hiding place should also be provided within the enclosure to give the tortoise somewhere to retreat to.

Outdoor Housing

It cannot be argued that unfiltered natural sunlight is better than any artificial form of lighting, that is why Marginated tortoises should be kept out side as often as possible. In the UK they can be maintained outdoors from May to September 24/7. This period can be extended if a heated shelter is provided within the enclosure in the form of a greenhouse, cold frame or shed.

Planting is an important part of any Marginated tortoises enclosure. Not only do plants provide lots of natural cover, but they allow the tortoises to graze naturally just as they would in the wild. Some ideal plants to use in an outdoor enclosure for Marginateds are Lavender, Hostas, Hebes, Pansies and Petunias. Edible weeds can also be allowed to grow in the enclosure.

Plants are not the only important thing to include in a Marginated tortoises enclosure, hard landscaping plays an important role too. Within my enclosures I use small rockeries, logs, border edging and broken pots to create areas of interest for the tortoises to explore. Not only do these items act as enrichment for the tortoises, but they also act as sight barriers, meaning the tortoises have to walk around the object to see what is on the other side of it, this gives them added interest in an enclosure.

As previously mentioned a greenhouse, cold frame or shed can be used in an enclosure as a shelter, but smaller hides should also be included to make the tortoise feel secure. A simple hide can be made using a flat rock placed over two small blocks, creating a gap in the middle for the tortoise to go in. You can also use terracotta pots half buried in the ground although many find that plants are the favourite hiding places of most tortoises.

Diet

In the wild Testudo Marginata have a very varied diet, consuming many different weeds and wild flowers everyday. It is fairly easy to replicate such a diet in a captive situation with a little research into edible weeds and plants (The Shelled Warriors edible weed section is a good place to start). Some weeds and flowers which can be included in a Marginated tortoises diet are: Dandelion, Bitter cress, Sow Thistle, Vetch, Clover, Dead nettle, Plantain Evening primrose, Hibiscus, Lavatera and Pansies. This is only a brief summary, there are many other weeds and flowers that can be included, as previously mentioned a little research to familiarise yourself with the various edible plants is all that is needed to create a healthy balanced diet. Marginated tortoises are well known for being partial to snails. I have observed them actively hunting for snails when outdoors. I never supplemented the diet by feeding them snails, but if they chose to find them I allow them to eat them.

In the Marginated tortoises natural range UVB levels are a lot higher than they are in the UK, for this reason it is advisable to add a D3 supplement such as Nutrabol daily to a Marginated tortoises food. I also advise giving your Marginated tortoise constant access to calcium in the form of limestone flour, either in a bowl in its powdered form or mixed with water to form a block. I also provide cuttlefish in my enclosures, although this is not as readily taken as limestone flour.

Hermanns Tortoise Caresheet, by Peter Watson

Wed, 28 Nov 2007 21:44:51 +0000

Hermanns tortoises are a small to medium sized tortoise, rarely exceeding 25cm in length and upto around 2kg in weight, although there are as always the exceptions. Two sub-species are currently recognised, The Eastern Hermanns (Testudo hermanni boettgeri) and the Western Hermanns (Testudo hermanni hermanni). The latter being the smaller and more brightly coloured of the two. A distinguishing feature of this species is the horny tip on their tails, which is present in almost all individuals. In the wild they have a wide range through Europe including Greece, France, Italy, Bulgaria, Spain and the former Yugoslavia.

When purchasing a Hermanns tortoise it is always wise to seek a UK breeder. Many tortoises found in pet shops today are imported from Slovenia and bring with them a number of health problems. Always check your article 10 certificate, which should be supplied when you purchase your Hermanns. If the country of origin is Slovenia then it is advisable to have faecal samples checked for worms and other internal parasites by a vet.

Indoor Housing

If done properly an indoor space for a Hermanns tortoise can easily be created. Hermanns do not do well when housed in vivarium type setups, where poor ventilation and humidity combined with constant high temperatures can contribute to a number of illnesses, the main one being RNS (Runny Nose Syndrome). The best housing, which allows good airflow is an open topped tortoise table.

Tortoises require UV light and heat to keep them healthy. This can be provided in two ways:

a) A UV tube and a heat lamp. Although it at first seems cheaper to go with this option it can work out to be very expensive. Typically a UV tube will cost around £20 and a starter around £15. After 6 months the tubes will need to be replaced as the UV over this period will become depleted, hence making the tube useless. There is an advantage to this however in that the UV and heat are controlled separately and so one could be turned off without the other having to be switched on as well.

b) A combined UV/heat lamp. The initial expense with this option may seem a lot, but long term it will work out a lot cheaper. These bulbs last between two and three years and cost around £50. Compared to the life of the tube and replacement costs, then the combined will prove more beneficial.

Whichever method of heating/lighting you use you should be aiming for 28-30C beneath the heat source during the day, with a cooler area away from the basking spot at around 20C.

Hermanns do not require a humid setup unlike species such as Redfoots and so substrate should be chosen accordingly. Personally I use a combination of Play sand and topsoil (40% sand/60% soil) and aubiose (available from any good equestrian store). This combination works well for me.

It is very important that a tortoises environment is stimulating and interesting for the tortoises. A water bowl is necessary, as despite popular belief tortoises do need more water than is provided in their food alone and will drink from a bowl. Things such as rocks, small logs and pebbles can all be added to make the enclosures more interesting. A good tip is to place items around the enclosure, which the tortoise is unable to see around. This encourages the tortoise to walk around the objects and explore the area keeping the tortoise occupied and gives them something to do. Hiding places are also a must to make the tortoises feel secure.

Outdoor Housing

All tortoises, from adults right down to hatchlings benefit from natural unfiltered sunlight. Outdoor areas for tortoises don't have to be anything special and don't need to cost a fortune to build. They can be built for use throughout the summer with a heated area for the tortoises to sleep in at night or they can just be areas where the tortoises can be taken during the day and brought in at night. Hermanns tortoises are fairly hardy. I successfully maintain my group outdoors from May to September 24/7 without any additional day or night time heat.

Plants/Weeds are an essential part of a Hermanns enclosure. Not only do they provide natural cover, but they also offer the tortoise a chance to graze naturally. Some ideal plants to use in an outdoor enclosure are Lavender, Hostas, Hebes, Pansies and Petunias. Edible weeds can also be allowed to grow in the enclosure.

Another great tip to creating a good enclosure is to add lots of sight barriers which will make the tortoise explore its enclosure more. A piece of border edging, a small rockery and even plants can all be used for this purpose. Another thing to consider is areas for the tortoise to hide. As already mentioned, plants are great for this but you can also build small hides using a flat rock placed over two small blocks, creating a gap in the middle for the tortoise to go in. You can also use terracotta pots half buried in the ground although many find that plants are the favourite hiding places of most tortoises. For a larger indoor area a greenhouse, cold frame or shed can be incorporated into an outdoor space.

Diet

In the wild Hermanns tortoises have a highly varied diet in the wild and will consume numerous different species of different weeds and wild flowers. With a bit of forward planning a good, varied weed diet can quite easily be replicated in a captive situation. Some weeds and flowers which can be included in a Hermanns diet are: Dandelion, Bitter cress, Sow Thistle, Vetch, Clover, Dead nettle, Plantain Evening primrose, Hibiscus, Lavatera and Pansies.

In the Hermanns natural range UVB levels are a lot higher than they are in the UK, for this reason it is advisable to add a D3 supplement such as Nutrabol daily to a Hermanns tortoises food. I also allow my Hermanns constant access to calcium in the form of limestone flour, either in a bowl in its powdered form or mixed with water to form a block. I also provide cuttlefish in my enclosures, although this is not as readily taken as limestone flour.

Tortoise Housing, by Peter Watson

Wed, 28 Nov 2007 15:34:15 +0000

Indoor Housing

If done properly an indoor space for a tortoise can easily be created. No tortoise should ever be kept in a vivarium type setup as poor ventilation and humidity combined with constant high temperatures can cause all sorts of illnesses, the main one being RNS (Runny Nose Syndrome). The best housing, which allows good airflow is an open topped tortoise table.

Each species requires a slightly different environment in a tortoise table. For example, Hermanns need a fairly dry enclosure, whereas Red Foots like a bit of humidity in their enclosures.

Heat and Light

Tortoises require UV light and heat to keep them healthy. This can be provided in two ways:

a) A UV tube and a heat lamp. Although it at first seems cheaper to go with this option it can work out to be very expensive. Typically a UV tube will cost around £20 and a starter around £15. After 6 months the tubes will need to be replaced as the UV over this period will become depleted, hence making the tube useless. There is an advantage to this however in that the UV and heat are controlled separately and so one could be turned off without the other having to be switched on as well.

b) A combined UV/heat lamp. The initial expense with this option may seem a lot, but long term it will work out a lot cheaper. These bulbs last between two and three years and cost around £50. Compared to the life of the tube and replacement costs, then the combined will prove more beneficial.

Substrate

Substrate varies depending on species. Tropical species such as Red Foots require humidity and so a substrate of 50/50 top soil and playsand mix as well as bark is ideal for them as it can be sprayed to keep humidity. Mediterranean and grassland species such as Hermanns and Leopards on the other hand prefer a less humid environment. 50/50 top soil and playsand mix still works well for them as well as hemp (or Aubiose). For my Mediterranean species I use a layer of 50/50 top soil and sand with a layer of hemp on top of this and this has proved to be very successful.

Bits and Pieces

It is very important that a tortoises environment is stimulating and interesting for the tortoises. A water bowl is necessary, as despite popular belief tortoises do need more water than is provided in their food alone and will drink from a bowl. Things such as rocks, small logs and pebbles can all be added to make the enclosures more interesting. A good tip is to place items around the enclosure, which the tortoise is unable to see around. This encourages the tortoise to walk around the objects and explore the area keeping the tortoise occupied and gives them something to do. Hiding places are also a must to make the tortoises feel secure.

Outdoor Housing

All tortoises, from adults right down to hatchlings benefit from natural unfiltered sunlight. Outdoor areas for tortoises don't have to be anything special and don't need to cost a fortune to build. They can be built for use throughout the summer with a heated area for the tortoises to sleep in at night or they can just be areas where the tortoises can be taken during the day and brought in at night. The enclosure shown above and below is a planted area surrounded by log roll and was inexpensive to build and works well for smaller tortoises. The example here contains many different plants which act as shelter for the tortoises as well as providing the occasional snack.

Some ideal plants to use in an outdoor enclosure are:

Lavender
Hostas
Hebes
Pansies
Petunias
Bamboo

As well as lots of plants this enclosure has lots of different terrains to give variety to the tortoise. The terrains in this enclosure are:

Soil
Pebbles
Grass
Slate
Bark

Another great tip to creating a good enclosure is to add lots of sight barriers which will make the tortoise explore its enclosure more. Here, a piece of border edging, a small rockery and of course lots of plants are used for this purpose. Another thing to consider is areas for the tortoise to hide. As already mentioned, plants are great for this but you can also build small hides using a flat rock placed over two small blocks, creating a gap in the middle for the tortoise to go in. You can also use terracotta pots half buried in the ground although many find that plants are the favourite hiding places of most tortoises. The hutch in the corner of this enclosure could be replaced with a coldframe or even a greenhouse.