Sourcing your Redfoot as a pet

Redfoots do make extremely good pets being very friendly, medium to largish animals as adults (4-8kg). In my experience its far better buying from a genuine UK breeder, unfortunately Redfoots don't require paperwork (article 10) so proving they are genuine UK Bred is difficult unless you have a personnel invite to the breeders home, or know of other people who can give reference to a reputable breeder. Never buy from a pet store even if the store owner assures you that they are captive bred, this can mean that they were bred in a captive farmed situation in their homeland where true captive breeding is not always genuine. Animals are often gathered from the wild to supplement the captive reared tortoises and baby tortoises often arrive in appalling conditions, typically being dehydrated and full of internal parasites. Wild gathered and captive farmed Redfoots mixed together often carry Hexmita Parva, an internal protozoa that infects the renal region causing death in many imports, so please take great care when purchasing a Redfooted tortoise - like all tortoises, buy genuine captive UK bred only.

Housing your new Redfoot

Redfoots aren't really that difficult to house and are probably far easier to maintain in a captive environment than most Mediterranean tortoises. Firstly depending on age these tortoises can be housed in a variety of enclosures; Table enclosures, Vivariums, under-bed storage units. Redfoot babies and juvenile animals thrive in well ventilated vivariums, unlike their Mediterranean cousins. Redfoots come from tropical rain forests where the relative humidity is very high, in the region of 70-80+%, something that is far easier to control in a closed space than an open topped table or storage tub. Again Redfoots don't require the same ventilated air movement that med species require coming again from the stagnant rain forest floor. However, I prefer the table top enclosure as more floor space is available than can be given in a vivarium enclosure or storage container.

Heating Requirements

Redfoots do need a good all round ambient temperature in the region of 86-88F (30-32c) with a night time drop to around 77f(25c) being tolerated well. Humidity is important, in the region of 70-80%. This helps keep their large eyes clean and their skin supple; Red's can't cope with dry conditions and if denied humidity they will dehydrate quite quickly, their nares become dry causing them to wheeze, and they will develop ear and eye problems quickly. Adult animals can be housed in large table enclosures once they have outgrown their vivarium enclosure. A table enclosure 7x7ft will house a trio happily through the winter months, but outdoor access is important when available through the summer months. I use a heated room with a oil radiator, but ceramic bulbs run through a thermostat for adults are useful. Heating pads can be fixed to the outer underside of enclosures but don't fix these internally as they can become very warm if a tortoise lies upon one for a long period, causing plastron burns. Always this kind of heating run through a thermostat.

UVB and Lighting

Redfoots do not care much for powerful lighting. The combined Mercury vapour bulbs such as T-rex and Powersun can be dangerous to the delicate eyes of very small and hatchling animals. However once their first year has passed and through to adulthood, they then seem to be more tolerant. I prefer to use a 5% UVB strip bulb for young animals, moving to 100w T-Rex combined light after 9-12 months of age. I also try to heat via the ambient air temp more than through the use of strong lights since most Reds don't take to prolonged basking, relying on the air temperature to maintain there body heat.

Substrates

Basic substrates are best replicating to as near a natural form as possible, for example a variety of forest barks can often be seen available on the market. However do not use any pine based barks since the resin that is present can cause severe skin irritation. Beech chips should also be avoided because they can produce large amounts of fungal spores which can cause respiratory problems. Topsoil is good and combined with forest bark makes a good floor medium also helping hold a humidity level far easier than just bark alone. Hides should be given in several areas, with bark arches always a firm favourite.

Redfoot Tortoise Diet

Much controversial advice can be gathered regarding Redfooted tortoise diets in captivity. These tortoises have a much faster digestive tract than Mediterranean tortoises, so a weedy high fibre diet important to Meds is not as good for Redfoots since little nutrients can be extracted as the food passes quickly though. Redfooted tortoises tolerate fruit more readily in their diet, being able to break down and utilise the sugary content which would kill the slower digestive tract of many other species .

I find a good dietary management for Redfoots contains 70% greens, weeds being preferred as they have a good calcium/phosphorus content. Salad greens can be mixed in also including Watercress, Romaine lettuce, Lambs lettuce and some Collard greens. 30% of the diet can contain a variety of fruits. I try to use fruits low in sugar such as blackberries, Raspberries etc. Papaya is also recommended as it is very digestible, fibrous and has a low sugar count. Whilst all fruits are accepted in limited amounts, try not to feed much Banana or Avocado since they are high in Phosphorus and fats. Mushrooms are also very much appreciated as are Courgettes and boiled Sweet Potato.

Redfoots do require animal protein in their diet as animals denied this part of their natural diet can have locomotion problems as adults. I find the best form of protein is rehydrated cat or dog meal, but chicken breast can be offered as well as snails and other small invertebrates. Protein feeds should only be offered in small amounts weekly or fortnightly. A small amount is all that is needed; for a hatchling one or two small rehydrated biscuits is enough. Adults require a tablespoon full once weekly.

Redfoots need an ample supply of water as they drink huge amounts daily and often enjoy sitting in a good sized water container. Remember also to use a good quality multivitamin and mineral supplement such as Nutrabol. Hatchlings and growing animals need this daily, lightly sprinkled on their meals whereas adult doses should be two or three times weekly. Cuttlefish is often more readily accepted more than some other tortoise species accept it.