How long do you keep your Basking bulb on for?

markbigears · 26-11-2015, 10:27 AM

Hi all, just when you think you are getting there, I started reading online about the effects of basking bulbs on tortoise shells causing dehydration and possible pyramiding due to excess heat. Bearing in mind, "Munster" (brought the date forward for pick up date this weekend!) will be kept in a vivarium (dirty word here I know, and on beech chips), how long should I keep it on? Should it be continuously or have a break half way through the day? What do you do?
I'm going to be giving him a daily bath in the morning, but not sure this will be enough. The only other thing I can think of is a humid hide? Stick a bit of sponge to the top of his hubbahut? Thanks all, Mark

**Alan1** · 26-11-2015, 12:18 PM

it should really be less dry in a viv but I've never used one so don't know for sure. The reptile vet at Morpeth actually recommends that small torts should be kept in vivs up to the age of 2 as the first 24 months are crucial regarding pyramiding. However he also says that in his opinion torts under the age of 2 shouldn't be sold at all. I don't know how long you should keep the bulb on, switch it off for a couple of hours during the day if you like.

Link http://www.vetcentremorpeth.co.uk/Ex...tiles1534.html

If you can't follow the link this is what it says ..

Tortoises

These animals are becoming more and more popular. With the restriction on imports of the common tortoises many of the more tropical species are being offered for sale.

Their requirements for feeding, temperature, lighting etc all differ so ensure you know exactly what is required before you buy. Remember tortoise tables do fine in a warm room but might struggle to maintain a suitable temperature in an unheated room in the middle of winter!

In our opinion many tortoises are offered for sale when far too young – with these little creatures the margin for error is very small. We strongly advocate the use of a vivarium and accurate control of the temperature by use of a thermostat. Remember many tropical species such as Sulcatas and Leopards do not hibernate and can grow very large.

Jan W · 26-11-2015, 02:58 PM

Have a look on the Tortoise Trust web site as they have reviewed the research to date.
Jan

CherryBrandy · 26-11-2015, 03:10 PM

mark - reason why vivs can be good for smaller tortoises sometimes, as mentioned is it is easier to control the temperature and humidity - in open top heat can escape easier of course and concentrate of heat can be difficult to control across a larger area for tiny ones.
There is a view that tortoises left too arid and dry can pyramid. Even in the desert it will surprise a lot of new keepers that the mirco climate has high levels of humidity. Some tortoises don't do well at all if humidity is too high though - RNS etc, damp is a no no. Borderline humidity is 40% - I spray my substrate to 60 % and up to 75% every day, sometimes twice a day. A room in a 'normal' house is usually around 60% humidity.
I would be very very careful on beech wood chips or anything wood chip. tortoises will try and eat them usually, or they may test them and ingest in part - wood chips will blow up inside a tortoise, expand until their stomach explodes and kill them.
Apart from that !! I know you are very keen and congrats for weekend ! pickies a must !! little Hermann isn't he? CB

markbigears · 26-11-2015, 04:16 PM

Jan, that was the article i was reading.
CB, he has been brought up on them apparently. they are the large chippings, so are bigger than his mouth. i'll keep an eye on him, if i see him trying to eat them, i will change asap. Can i ask what is RNS? Yes he is a little hermanns, was going to pick him up Christmas eve, but as i've got the viv all set up, wife said to get him on saturday. Will defo post picks, thanks for all your help, you have been really fantastic with all my numerous questions!

CherryBrandy · 26-11-2015, 04:47 PM

thanks Mark, yes RNS - runny nose syndrome. He is pretty small though still isn't he, have you seen the size of their mouths when they open as they get bigger ! . just be very wary with wood chip...too many instances and they can break and rip a lot of stuff with that beak. A friend also said it with her guinea pigs - oh but they eat wood......im afraid that was the end of her guinea pigs. (very true and very sad). CB

markbigears · 26-11-2015, 04:53 PM

thanks for the heads up CB, yes, at the moment he's a small guy, maybe i'll change to coir next time.

**Alan1** · 26-11-2015, 06:45 PM

Pyramiding occurs in wild torts too, usually in areas of drought. People have been led to believe all kinds of reasons for pyramiding but it seems to me that lack of humidity when young during that crucial first 2 years is the one I tend to believe. Lots of folk will tell you it's caused by what they eat but who's to say they haven't been deprived of humidity and the eating thing is coincidental? They have access to wild plants in the wild but can still get pyramiding. http://www.testudo-farm.de/html/formation_of_humps.html Wolfgang Wegehaupt is the writer of that article and his book is highly regarded by many.

markbigears · 26-11-2015, 10:36 PM

Many thanks Alan for that info, I'm off for more reading! When the wife said we are getting a tortoise, I had no idea it would be this stressful! I mentioned to my wife he needs to be bathed daily .... I won't repeat what she said!

Just read that Alan, interesting reading and yet another view of pyramiding, thankyou so much
For the link

CherryBrandy · 27-11-2015, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan1

Pyramiding occurs in wild torts too, usually in areas of drought. People have been led to believe all kinds of reasons for pyramiding but it seems to me that lack of humidity when young during that crucial first 2 years is the one I tend to believe. Lots of folk will tell you it's caused by what they eat but who's to say they haven't been deprived of humidity and the eating thing is coincidental? They have access to wild plants in the wild but can still get pyramiding. http://www.testudo-farm.de/html/formation_of_humps.html Wolfgang Wegehaupt is the writer of that article and his book is highly regarded by many.

I will reread ALan, I love his book, sadly for me I also love looking at the photos the best. I am a great believer in watching humidity levels - did you know if too low or too high it can account for the majority? , a lot anyway of illnesses in humans in some way - or at least attribute to it.

CB

26-11-2015, 10:27 AM	#1
markbigears Member Incubating Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 222	How long do you keep your Basking bulb on for? Hi all, just when you think you are getting there, I started reading online about the effects of basking bulbs on tortoise shells causing dehydration and possible pyramiding due to excess heat. Bearing in mind, "Munster" (brought the date forward for pick up date this weekend!) will be kept in a vivarium (dirty word here I know, and on beech chips), how long should I keep it on? Should it be continuously or have a break half way through the day? What do you do? I'm going to be giving him a daily bath in the morning, but not sure this will be enough. The only other thing I can think of is a humid hide? Stick a bit of sponge to the top of his hubbahut? Thanks all, Mark

26-11-2015, 12:18 PM	#2
Alan1 Super Moderator Adult Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sunny Scotland Posts: 21,512	it should really be less dry in a viv but I've never used one so don't know for sure. The reptile vet at Morpeth actually recommends that small torts should be kept in vivs up to the age of 2 as the first 24 months are crucial regarding pyramiding. However he also says that in his opinion torts under the age of 2 shouldn't be sold at all. I don't know how long you should keep the bulb on, switch it off for a couple of hours during the day if you like. Link http://www.vetcentremorpeth.co.uk/Ex...tiles1534.html If you can't follow the link this is what it says .. Tortoises These animals are becoming more and more popular. With the restriction on imports of the common tortoises many of the more tropical species are being offered for sale. Their requirements for feeding, temperature, lighting etc all differ so ensure you know exactly what is required before you buy. Remember tortoise tables do fine in a warm room but might struggle to maintain a suitable temperature in an unheated room in the middle of winter! In our opinion many tortoises are offered for sale when far too young – with these little creatures the margin for error is very small. We strongly advocate the use of a vivarium and accurate control of the temperature by use of a thermostat. Remember many tropical species such as Sulcatas and Leopards do not hibernate and can grow very large. Last edited by Alan1; 26-11-2015 at 12:22 PM.

26-11-2015, 03:10 PM	#4
CherryBrandy Senior Member Adult Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: SE England Posts: 4,262	mark - reason why vivs can be good for smaller tortoises sometimes, as mentioned is it is easier to control the temperature and humidity - in open top heat can escape easier of course and concentrate of heat can be difficult to control across a larger area for tiny ones. There is a view that tortoises left too arid and dry can pyramid. Even in the desert it will surprise a lot of new keepers that the mirco climate has high levels of humidity. Some tortoises don't do well at all if humidity is too high though - RNS etc, damp is a no no. Borderline humidity is 40% - I spray my substrate to 60 % and up to 75% every day, sometimes twice a day. A room in a 'normal' house is usually around 60% humidity. I would be very very careful on beech wood chips or anything wood chip. tortoises will try and eat them usually, or they may test them and ingest in part - wood chips will blow up inside a tortoise, expand until their stomach explodes and kill them. Apart from that !! I know you are very keen and congrats for weekend ! pickies a must !! little Hermann isn't he? CB __________________ Horsfields, Spur Thighed, & Marginata

26-11-2015, 04:47 PM	#6
CherryBrandy Senior Member Adult Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: SE England Posts: 4,262	thanks Mark, yes RNS - runny nose syndrome. He is pretty small though still isn't he, have you seen the size of their mouths when they open as they get bigger ! . just be very wary with wood chip...too many instances and they can break and rip a lot of stuff with that beak. A friend also said it with her guinea pigs - oh but they eat wood......im afraid that was the end of her guinea pigs. (very true and very sad). CB __________________ Horsfields, Spur Thighed, & Marginata

26-11-2015, 10:36 PM	#9
markbigears Member Incubating Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 222	Many thanks Alan for that info, I'm off for more reading! When the wife said we are getting a tortoise, I had no idea it would be this stressful! I mentioned to my wife he needs to be bathed daily .... I won't repeat what she said! Just read that Alan, interesting reading and yet another view of pyramiding, thankyou so much For the link Last edited by markbigears; 26-11-2015 at 10:58 PM.

26-11-2015, 02:58 PM	#3
Jan W Senior Member Sub Adult Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Hampshire Posts: 1,400	Have a look on the Tortoise Trust web site as they have reviewed the research to date. Jan

26-11-2015, 04:16 PM	#5
markbigears Member Incubating Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 222	Jan, that was the article i was reading. CB, he has been brought up on them apparently. they are the large chippings, so are bigger than his mouth. i'll keep an eye on him, if i see him trying to eat them, i will change asap. Can i ask what is RNS? Yes he is a little hermanns, was going to pick him up Christmas eve, but as i've got the viv all set up, wife said to get him on saturday. Will defo post picks, thanks for all your help, you have been really fantastic with all my numerous questions!

26-11-2015, 04:53 PM	#7
markbigears Member Incubating Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 222	thanks for the heads up CB, yes, at the moment he's a small guy, maybe i'll change to coir next time.

26-11-2015, 06:45 PM	#8
Alan1 Super Moderator Adult Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sunny Scotland Posts: 21,512	Pyramiding occurs in wild torts too, usually in areas of drought. People have been led to believe all kinds of reasons for pyramiding but it seems to me that lack of humidity when young during that crucial first 2 years is the one I tend to believe. Lots of folk will tell you it's caused by what they eat but who's to say they haven't been deprived of humidity and the eating thing is coincidental? They have access to wild plants in the wild but can still get pyramiding. http://www.testudo-farm.de/html/formation_of_humps.html Wolfgang Wegehaupt is the writer of that article and his book is highly regarded by many.

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